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Jet

Organic (fossilised wood — gem-quality lignite) · organic

Jet is fossilised driftwood — a hard, black, gem-quality lignite that carves and polishes to a warm satin finish and feels feather-light and warm to wear. Whitby jet defined Victorian mourning jewellery after Prince Albert's death, and it is still the benchmark for quality. It burns, cracks and scratches easily, so pieces demand gentle, dry care.

Key properties

Chemical formulaOrganic: primarily C with H and O (fossilised conifer wood, Araucariaceae)
Crystal systemAmorphous (none — organic)
Mohs hardness2.5-4
ToughnessPoor to fair (brittle, cracks with rough wear)
Refractive index1.640-1.680
Optic characterIsotropic (SR) — single spot reading about 1.66
Specific gravity1.30-1.34
CleavageNone
FractureConchoidal to uneven
HabitNodules, rods and seams of compact fossil wood; sometimes preserving woody grain textures
LustreDull to greasy on broken surfaces; polish: Resinous to vitreous, warm satin-like
UV fluorescenceInert
PleochroismNone
Cause of colourDeep black from carbon-rich fossilised plant tissue; brown tone visible in thin edges and streak
Typical inclusionsPreserved wood grain, pyrite inclusions, occasional cracks; thin splinters show dark brown in transmitted light
StabilityBurns readily with a sooty, coal-like odour; stable to light; acids may dull the polish; cracks if overheated or dried rapidly
Heat sensitivityExtreme — a hot point produces coal smoke; never steam or ultrasonic
Care and cleaningDry or barely damp soft cloth; if needed brief cool soapy water and immediate gentle drying; never ultrasonic, steam, hot water, solvents or perfume
BirthstonesNone (traditional Victorian mourning jewellery material)
AvailabilityLimited — genuine Whitby jet commands collector prices; Spanish and other jet is available in smaller volume
RecognitionLight in the hand (SG ~1.32), warm to the touch, takes static electricity when rubbed with wool, brown streak, hot point smells of coal; spot RI 1.66

Varieties

Jet

Colourvelvet black, brown in strong transmitted light
Transparencyopaque
Clarity typeNot applicable — opaque
PhenomenaNone
AppearanceDeep uniform black that takes a soft resinous-vitreous polish, noticeably lighter and warmer than any black mineral or glass; carved beads, chains and cameos show crisp detail
Trade namesWhitby jet (the quality benchmark) • hard jet • Oltu stone (Turkey, Erzurum area)
MisnomersBlack amber (a folk name — jet is not resin) • Paris jet (actually black glass) • French jet (black glass)
Typical sizesBeads 4-20 mm; carved pendants, brooches and chains from a few carats to statement pieces; large antique necklaces survive whole
Cutting stylesBeads • carved chains and links • cameos and intaglios • cabochons • tumbled pieces
Key separationsvs black glass ('French jet'): glass is cold and heavy (SG ~2.4-2.6), vitreous, conchoidal glossy chips; jet warm, light (1.32) • vs vulcanite/ebonite (hard rubber): rubber smells of sulfur/burnt rubber under hot point and shows moulded seams; jet smells of coal • vs black chalcedony/onyx: onyx hard (7), cold, RI 1.54, SG 2.6 • vs obsidian: glassy lustre, SG ~2.4 • vs black coral: coral shows concentric growth rings and granular fracture; jet is structureless • hot point (on a hidden spot or shaving): jet = coal odour, shaving breaks rather than curls
Sources (localities)England (Whitby, North Yorkshire — classic hard jet of the Jurassic 'Jet Rock') • Spain (Asturias — main modern European supply) • USA (New Mexico Acoma district; Colorado; Utah) • Turkey (Erzurum — Oltu stone) • France (Aude) • Poland (Wadowice area)
AvailabilityLimited; Whitby material scarce and collectable, Spanish and Turkish jet fills lower price tiers
Market notesAntique Victorian Whitby jet auctions well above modern material; much 'jet' sold to tourists is actually glass, plastic or vulcanite — always test
Care notesLast piece on, first off; keep from perfume, hairspray, heat and prolonged water; store wrapped and dry; ultrasonic and steam will destroy it
In shortJet is the Victorian mourning classic — warm, light, black as velvet and unmistakable once hefted. Genuine Whitby pieces are antiques with a following; everything else black on the market must be separated by weight, feel and the hot point.
Size (ct)USD per caratTierAs of
1.00–20.00 $1.00 – $8.00 modern carved beads and cabs (Spanish/Turkish)2026-10-26
1.00–50.00 $10.00 – $60.00 genuine Whitby jet and Victorian antique2026-10-26

Retail market survey, per carat unless noted. Ranges describe what commercial to fine stones trade at; exceptional stones and provenance premiums sit above them.

Sources

GIA gem encyclopedia · mindat.org · Wikipedia

Data compiled and fact-checked against gemmological literature, October 2026 (JDMIS gem reference). Properties are ranges accepted in gemmological practice; individual stones vary.

See also

Gemstone reference entries: gem #221

Related materials: Corundum · Diamond · Opal · Quartz · Spinel · Topaz

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